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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a particularly cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials comprising at least: a non-aqueous medium containing at least one hydrocarbon oil, particles of at least one polymer stabilized on the surface with a stabilizing agent, the polymer particles being a polymer of (C1-C4) alkyl (meth) acrylate; the stabilizing agent being a polymer of isobornyl (meth) acrylate selected from isobornyl (meth) acrylate homopolymer and random copolymers of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and alkyl (meth) acrylate C1-C4 present in a weight ratio - isobornyl (meth) acrylate / C1-C4 alkyl (meth) acrylate greater than 4; and a hydrophobic film-forming polymer selected from block ethylenic copolymers, hydrocarbon resins and mixtures thereof. The present invention furthermore relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of keratin materials and the use of a dispersion of particles of at least one surface-stabilized polymer with a stabilizing agent in a non-aqueous medium containing at least a hydrocarbon oil for preparing a mascara or eyeliner composition.
    公开号:FR3030261A1
    申请号:FR1462731
    申请日:2014-12-18
    公开日:2016-06-24
    发明作者:Philippe Ilekti；Laure Daubersies；Nathalie Gavache；Stephane Douezan
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The present invention relates to the field of skincare and / or makeup of keratin materials and / or keratinous fibers, and aims to provide compositions more particularly dedicated to the makeup of eyelashes and eyelid contours, eyes. By "keratin materials" is preferably meant human keratin materials, especially keratinous fibers. By "keratinous fibers" is meant in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, and preferably the eyelashes. This term "keratin fibers", within the meaning of the present invention also extends to synthetic false eyelashes. The present invention is particularly interesting for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials. In general, the compositions dedicated to the makeup of keratinous fibers (mascara), for example the eyelashes, or during the coating of the skin (liner), for example around the eyes, eyelids (eyeliner) or lips (lip -liner) are likely to provide a matte makeup effect. It is indeed difficult to give them an ability to provide a glossy film with regard to the lack of compatibility of the compounds conventionally considered for this purpose, in the field of makeup of the lips or nails, and the implementation requirements required for the eyelashes makeup and eye contour. Thus, the glossy appearance is conventionally provided in a cosmetic composition of the lip gloss type, by the use of oily fatty substances and in a composition of the varnished type by the use of rigid film-forming polymers. However, the use of these two types of compounds effective to form a glossy film alters the drying properties with regard to oils and comfort with regard to rigid film-forming polymers. Indeed, in the presence of oily fatty substance, the film deposited on keratin materials does not dry and the use of rigid film-forming polymers makes the deposit uncomfortable for consumers because of the rigidity felt. There remains therefore a need for compositions including cosmetics, including mascaras and eyeliners, having after application a durable makeup result brilliant over time while remaining able to exhibit good properties of resistance to transfer, comfort, non sticky residual and held in time.
    [0002] Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that the combination of at least one hydrocarbon oil as defined below, at least particles of at least one specific stabilized polymer as defined below and from less specific hydrophobic film-forming polymer as defined below, precisely meets this need. Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular eyelashes, comprising at least: a non-aqueous medium containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil; particles of at least one polymer stabilized at the surface by a stabilizing agent, the polymer of the particles being a polymer of (meth) acrylate C1-C4; the stabilizing agent being a polymer of isobornyl (meth) acrylate selected from isobornyl (meth) acrylate homopolymer and random copolymers of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and alkyl (meth) acrylate C1-C4 present in a weight ratio of isobornyl (meth) acrylate / C1-C4 alkyl (meth) acrylate greater than 4; and a hydrophobic film-forming polymer chosen from block ethylenic copolymers, hydrocarbon resins and their mixtures. According to an advantageous variant, said particles are dispersed in said non-aqueous medium containing at least one hydrocarbon oil. Against all expectations, and as demonstrated in the experimental part below, the inventors have indeed found that the presence of at least one hydrocarbon oil as defined below, at least particles of at least one polymer Specific stabilized as defined below, and at least one specific hydrophobic film-forming polymer as defined below provides access to a mascara formula or to a liner formula still having the expected properties in terms of holding although containing a vehicle and advantageously to obtain a durable glossy deposit over time, without transfer, without residual tack and comfortable. The compositions according to the invention may in particular be makeup compositions intended to provide, by their sole use on the eyelashes, the desired makeup effect, but also to be unpigmented or colored compositions intended to be superimposed on a makeup already. deposited on the eyelashes are coated with an annex makeup film, they are then qualified respectively top-coat or basecoat. It may also be compositions dedicated to provide only a care at the level of keratinous fibers and in particular eyelashes. The compositions according to the invention also find another advantageous application in the field of liners and more particularly eyeliners. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a process, especially a cosmetic one, for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular eyelashes, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to said keratin materials a composition which conforms to the invention.
    [0003] The present invention furthermore aims to use a dispersion of particles of at least one polymer stabilized at the surface by a stabilizing agent in a non-aqueous medium containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, the polymer of the particles being a polymer of (meth) ) C1-C4 alkyl acrylate; the stabilizing agent being a polymer of isobornyl (meth) acrylate selected from isobornyl (meth) acrylate homopolymer and random copolymers of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and alkyl (meth) acrylate C1-C4 present in a weight ratio of isobornyl (meth) acrylate / (C1-C4) alkyl (meth) acrylate greater than 4 to prepare a composition of mascara or eyeliner. HYDROPHOBIC FILM ANALYZERS As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer. A hydrophobic film-forming polymer that is suitable for the invention is chosen from block ethylenic copolymers, hydrocarbon resins and their mixtures. 1. Ethylenic block copolymers According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a block ethylenic copolymer, containing at least a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) of greater than or equal to 40.degree. derived in whole or in part from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C, and at least one second sequence having a temperature of glass transition less than or equal to 20 ° C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C , said first sequence and said second sequence being interconnected by a stati intermediate segment medium comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first block and at least one of said second monomers constituting the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2. Polymers of this type suitable for the invention. are described in EP 1 411 069.
    [0004] By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the MEXOMERE PAS® (Copolymer Acrylic Acid / Isobutyl Acrylate / Isobornyl Acrylate diluted 50% in Isododecane) marketed by Chimex. The sequenced ethylenic copolymer (s) may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight. and even more advantageously from 8% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 2. Hydrocarbon resins. As stated above, the claimed compositions may comprise at least one hydrocarbon resin, and in particular as detailed below. The hydrocarbon resins are preferably chosen from low molecular weight polymers which can be classified, according to the type of monomer they comprise, into: - indene hydrocarbon resins, preferably such as the resins resulting from the polymerization in a majority proportion of monomer indene and in a minor proportion of monomer selected from styrene, methylindene, methylstyrene and mixtures thereof. These resins may optionally be hydrogenated. These resins may have a molecular weight ranging from 290 to 1150 g / mol; Examples of indene resins include those sold under the reference ESCOREZ 7105 by the company Exxon Chem., NEVCHEM 100 and NEVEX 100 by the company Neville Chem., NORSOLENE S105 by the company Sartomer, PICCO 6100 by the company Hercules and RESINALL by the company Resinall Corp., or the hydrogenated indene / methylstyrene / styrene copolymers sold under the name "REGALITE" by the company Eastman Chemical, in particular REGALITE R 1100, REGALITE R 1090, REGALITE R-7100, REGALITE R1010 HYDROCARBON RESIN, REGALITE R1125 HYDROCARB ON RESIN; aliphatic pentanediene resins such as those resulting from the polymerization mainly of the 1,3-pentanediene monomer (trans or cis piperylene) and of the minority monomer (s) chosen from isoprene, butene, and 2 -methyl-2-butene, pentene, 1,4-pentanediene and mixtures thereof. These resins may have a molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 2500 g / mol; Such resins of 1,3-pentanediene are sold, for example, under the references PICCOTAC 95 by the company Eastman Chemical, Escorez 1304 by the company Exxon Chemicals, NevTAC 100 by the company Neville Chem. or Wingtack 95 by the company Goodyear; mixed resins of pentanediene and indene, which are derived from the polymerization of a mixture of pentanediene and indene monomers such as those described above, such as, for example, the resins marketed under the reference Escorez 2101 by the company Exxon Chemicals., Nevpene 9500 by Neville Chem., Hercotac 1148 by Hercules., Norsolene A 100 by Sartomer, Wingtack 86, Wingtack Extra and Wingtack Plus by Goodyear, diene resins of cyclopentanediene dimers such as those resulting from the polymerization of the first monomer chosen from indene and styrene, and from the second monomer chosen from cyclopentanediene dimers such as dicyclopentanediene, methyldicyclopentanediene, the other dimers of pentanediene, and mixtures thereof. These resins generally have a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 800 g / mol, such as for example those sold under the reference BETAPRENE BR 100 by the company Arizona Chemical Co., Neville LX-685-125 and Neville LX-1000 by the company Neville Chem., Piccodiene 2215 by Hercules, Petro-Rez 200 by Lawter or Resinall 760 by Resinall Corp. ; diene resins of isoprene dimers such as terpenic resins resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer chosen from α-pinene, α-pinene and limonene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may have a molecular weight ranging from 300 to 2,000 g / mol. Such resins are sold for example under the name PICCOLYTE A115 and S125 by the company Hercules, ZONAREZ 7100 or ZONATAC 105 LITE by the company ARIZONA Chem. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon resin is selected from hydrocarbon resins solid at room temperature (20 ° C).
    [0005] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon resin is chosen from indene hydrocarbon resins, aliphatic pentadiene resins, mixed pentanediene and indene resins, diene resins of cyclopentanediene dimers, diene resins of dimers of isoprene and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one compound chosen from hydrocarbon resins as described above, in particular from indene hydrocarbon resins, aliphatic pentadiene resins, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon resin is chosen from indene hydrocarbon resins. According to a preferred embodiment, the resin is chosen from hydrogenated indene / methylstyrene / styrene copolymers. In particular, it is possible to use the hydrogenated indene / methylstyrene / styrene copolymers, such as those sold under the name REGALITE by the company Eastman Chemical, such as REGALITE R 1100 CG HYDROCARBON RESIN, REGALITE R 1100 and REGALITE R 1090. , the REGALITE R-7100, the REGALITE R1010 HYDRO CARB ON RE S IN, the REGALITE R1125 HYDRO C ARB ON S IN. A composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight and even more preferably from 8% to 40% by weight of hydrocarbon resin (s), by relative to the total weight of the composition. HYDROCARBON OIL The composition according to the invention comprises a hydrocarbon oil. This oil may be volatile (vapor pressure greater than or equal to 0.13 Pa measured at 25 ° C.) or non-volatile (vapor pressure less than 0.13 Pa, measured at 25 ° C.). Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is volatile. The hydrocarbon oil is an oil (non-aqueous compound) that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C).
    [0006] Hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
    [0007] The hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from: hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular: C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and ntetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the n-undecane mixtures ( C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof. short chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, of avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, cassis, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms. carbon; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane, paraffin oils, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, such as oils; of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, and the like. isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, heptanoates , octanoates, decanoates or rici alcohols of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, - mixtures thereof. More particularly, the content of hydrocarbon oil (s) ranges from 30% to 75% by weight, preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This hydrocarbon oil may be provided in whole or in part with the surface-stabilized polymer particles, in particular when they are introduced into the composition, in the form of a previously prepared dispersion, of stabilized polymer particles. In this case, the hydrocarbon oil present in the composition represents at least the non-aqueous medium of the polymer particle dispersion.
    [0008] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oil is apolar (thus formed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms).
    [0009] The hydrocarbon oil is preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular the apolar oils, described above. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon oil is isododecane. More particularly, the content of isododecane ranges from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and still more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably the hydrocarbon oil (s), in particular isododecane, is (are) the only oil (s) of the composition, or is (are) present (s). ) at a majority weight content relative to the (x) additional oil (s) possibly present in the composition. Thus, according to one particular embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil (s) is (are) present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 70% by weight, of preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and still more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the hydrocarbon oil (s) being preferably apolar (s) more preferably volatile (s), still more preferably having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, or even better isododecane. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition contains one or more non-volatile oils, their content advantageously does not exceed 10% by weight, preferably 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or is free of non-volatile oil (s).
    [0010] POLYMER PARTICLES The composition according to the invention also comprises particles, generally spherical, of at least one surface-stabilized polymer. Preferably, the particles are introduced into the composition in the form of a dispersion of generally spherical particles of at least one surface-stabilized polymer in an oily medium, advantageously containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, as defined previously. .
    [0011] The polymer of the particles is a polymer of (C1-C4) alkyl (meth) acrylate. The monomers of (C1-C4) alkyl (meth) acrylate may be chosen from methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, n-propyl (meth) acrylate and (meth) acrylate. isopropyl, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate. Advantageously, a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate monomer is used. Preferably, the polymer of the particles is a polymer of methyl acrylate and / or ethyl acrylate.
    [0012] The polymer of the particles may furthermore comprise an ethylenically unsaturated acid monomer or of their anhydride, chosen in particular from ethylenically unsaturated acidic monomers comprising at least one carboxylic, phosphoric or sulphonic acid function, such as crotonic acid, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, acid acrylamidoglycolic acid, and their salts. Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated acidic monomer is selected from (meth) acrylic acid, maleic acid and maleic anhydride.
    [0013] The salts may be chosen from alkali metal salts, for example sodium and potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium, strontium, metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese, copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4 +; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as for example the salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) amine, tri- (2- hydroxyethyl) amine; lysine salts, arginine. The polymer of the particles may thus comprise, or consist essentially of, from 80 to 100% by weight of (C 1 -C 4) alkyl (meth) acrylate and from 0 to 20% by weight of ethylenically unsaturated acidic monomer, relative to to the total weight of the polymer.
    [0014] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polymer consists essentially of a polymer of one or more monomers of C1-C4 alkyl (meth) acrylate. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the polymer essentially consists of a copolymer of (meth) acrylate C1-C4 and (meth) acrylic acid or maleic anhydride. The polymer of the particles may be chosen from: homopolymers of methyl acrylate homopolymers of ethyl acrylate copolymers methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate copolymers methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymers acrylate methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride methyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymers ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymers methyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers. Advantageously, the polymer of the particles is a non-crosslinked polymer.
    [0015] The polymer of the particles preferably has a number average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 10,000,000, preferably ranging from 150,000 to 500,000. In the case of particle dispersion, the polymer (s) of the particles may ) be present in the dispersion in a content ranging from 21% to 58.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the dispersion, preferably ranging from 36% to 42% by weight. The stabilizing agent is a polymer of isobornyl (meth) acrylate chosen from isobornyl (meth) acrylate homopolymer and random copolymers of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and alkyl (meth) acrylate. C1-C4 present in a weight ratio of isobornyl (meth) acrylate / C1-C4 alkyl (meth) acrylate greater than 4, preferably greater than 4.5, and still more preferably greater than or equal to 5. Advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 4.5 to 19, preferably from 5 to 19 and more particularly from 5 to 12.
    [0016] Thus, according to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a stabilizing agent (s) which is (are) a random copolymer of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and (meth) acrylate. C1-C4 alkyl present in a weight ratio of isobornyl (meth) acrylate / C 1 -C 4 alkyl (meth) acrylate greater than or equal to 5. Advantageously, the stabilizing agent is chosen from: homopolymers of isobornyl acrylate random copolymers of isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate random copolymers of isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate random copolymers of isobornyl methacrylate / methyl acrylate according to US Pat. weight ratio described above. The stabilizing polymer preferably has a number average molecular weight of from 10,000 to 400,000, preferably from 20,000 to 200,000.
    [0017] The stabilizer is in contact with the surface of the polymer particles and thus makes it possible to stabilize these particles at the surface, in particular for maintaining these particles in dispersion in the non-aqueous medium of the dispersion. Advantageously, the stabilizer (s) + polymer (s) of the particles, in particular present in the dispersion comprises from 10% to 50% by weight of polymerized isobornyl (meth) acrylate and from 50% to 90% by weight C 1 -C 4 alkyl (meth) acrylate polymerized, based on the total weight of the stabilizer (s) + polymer (s) of the particles. Preferably, the stabilizer (s) + polymer (s) of the particles, in particular present in the dispersion comprises from 15% to 30% by weight of polymerized isobornyl (meth) acrylate and from 70% to 85% by weight C 1 -C 4 alkyl (meth) acrylate polymerized, based on the total weight of the stabilizer (s) + polymer (s) of the particles. Preferably, the stabilizing agent (s) is (are) soluble in the hydrocarbon oil (es), in particular is (are) soluble in the isododecane.
    [0018] According to a theory which can not limit the scope of the present invention, the inventors theorize that the surface stabilization of the (C 1 -C 4) alkyl (meth) acrylate polymer particles results from a phenomenon of adsorption of surface of the stabilizing agent on the C1-C4 alkyl (meth) acrylate polymer particles. When the polymer particles are made into the composition in the form of a previously prepared dispersion, the oily medium of this polymer dispersion comprises a first hydrocarbon oil. Reference may be made to what has been said above about this oil in terms of its nature. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oil is apolar and preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular apolar oils, described above.
    [0019] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon oil is isododecane. The polymer particles, in particular in the dispersion, preferably have a mean size, especially in number, ranging from 50 to 500 nm, in particular ranging from 75 to 400 nm, and better still from 100 to 250 nm.
    [0020] In general, a dispersion of polymer particles suitable for the invention may be prepared in the following manner, given by way of example. The polymerization can be carried out in dispersion, that is to say by precipitation of the polymer being formed, with protection of the particles formed with a stabilizer.
    [0021] In a first step, the stabilizing polymer is prepared by mixing the monomer (s) constituting the stabilizing polymer, with a radical initiator, in a solvent called synthetic solvent, and by polymerizing these monomers. In a second step, the monomer constituting the polymer is added to the stabilizing polymer formed and the polymerization of these added monomers is carried out in the presence of the radical initiator. When the non-aqueous medium is a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, the polymerization can be carried out in an apolar organic solvent (synthetic solvent), then the nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil (which must be miscible with the said synthesis solvent) is added and the synthetic solvent.
    [0022] A synthesis solvent is thus chosen such that the monomers of the stabilizing polymer and the radical initiator are soluble therein, and the polymer particles obtained therein are insoluble so that they precipitate during their formation.
    [0023] In particular, the synthesis solvent can be chosen from alkanes such as heptane or cyclohexane. When the non-aqueous medium is a volatile hydrocarbon oil, the polymerization can be carried out directly in the said oil, which thus also acts as a synthesis solvent. The monomers must also be soluble there, as well as the radical initiator, and the polymer of the particles obtained must be insoluble there. The monomers are preferably present in the synthesis solvent, before polymerization, in a proportion of 5-20% by weight. All of the monomers may be present in the solvent before the start of the reaction, or a portion of the monomers may be added as the polymerization reaction progresses. The radical initiator may be in particular azobisisobutyronitrile or tert-butylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate. The polymerization can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 70 to 110 ° C. The polymer particles are surface-stabilized, when formed during the polymerization, by the stabilizing agent. The stabilization can be carried out by any known means, and in particular by direct addition of the stabilizing agent, during the polymerization. The stabilizer is preferably also present in the mixture prior to polymerization of the monomers of the polymer of the particles. However, it is also possible to add it continuously, especially when the monomers of the polymer of the particles are also continuously added. It is possible to use from 10% to 30% by weight of stabilizer relative to the total weight of monomers used (stabilizer + polymer of the particles), and preferably from 15% to 25% by weight.
    [0024] The dispersion of polymer particles advantageously comprises from 30% to 65% by weight of solids, relative to the total weight of the dispersion, and preferably from 40% to 60% by weight. A composition according to the invention may thus comprise from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 8% to 45% by weight and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, of polymer particles as described above in relation to to the total weight of the composition (content expressed as dry matter).
    [0025] AQUEOUS PHASE The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. According to another variant embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol. By "polyol" is meant for the purposes of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
    [0026] Such polyols may be used in amounts of from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight of polyol. C2-C32, relative to the total weight of the composition. The polyols which are advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 3 to 7 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the polyol may be, for example, chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and glycerol. polyglycerols, such as oligomers of glycerol such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, in particular pentylene glycol. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least pentylene glycol.
    [0027] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is anhydrous. Within the meaning of the invention, a composition is said to be anhydrous when it comprises less than 5% by weight of water, better less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water relative to the weight. total of the composition, and especially free of water. If necessary, such small amounts of water may in particular be brought by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual amounts. Waxes For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than 30 ° C. up to 200 ° C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixed. The waxes that can be used in the invention are solid compounds at room temperature, intended to structure the composition, in particular in the form of a stick; they can be hydrocarbon and / or silicone and be of vegetable, mineral, and / or synthetic origin. In particular, they have a melting temperature of greater than 40 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C. As waxes that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of those generally used in the cosmetics field: they are in particular of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax such as, for example, that marketed under the name CERAUBA Ti by the company BAERLOCHER, Candelilla, Ouricoury, Japan, cork fibers or sugar cane, rice, Montan, paraffin such as in particular that marketed under the name AFFINE 56-58 PASTILLES by the company BAERLOCHER, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated oils such as jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes or fatty acid esters such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides concretes at 40 ° C and better at 45 ° C. ° C, silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, esters of poly (di) methylsiloxane solid at 40 ° C whose ester chain comprises at least 10 atoms of carbon; and their mixtures. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight of wax (s), in particular less than 5% by weight of wax (s) relative to the total weight of the composition and more particularly, is devoid of wax. PASTE COMPOUND For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 25 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. A pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polyol ethers, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols preferably C 2 -C 5 - esters such as oligomeric glycerol esters, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, pentaerythritol esters, diol dimer esters and diacid dimer, mango butter, shea butter and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight of pasty compound, in particular less than 5% by weight of pasty compound relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly, the composition is devoid of compound. pasty. COLORING USES The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one dyestuff.
    [0028] This (or these) dyestuff (s) is (or are) preferably chosen from pulverulent materials, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres, preferably from pigments. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, and also oxides of iron, titanium or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, 13-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, the yellow quinoline, the annatto. Preferably, the pigments contained in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from metal oxides. More preferably, the pigments contained in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from iron oxides, especially those sold under the name SUNPURO BLACK IRON OXIDE C33-7001® by SUN. Thus, according to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one dyestuff, preferably the dyeing material (s) is (are) selected from the materials pulverulent, in particular pigments, more particularly from metal oxides such as iron oxides. These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the dye (s) is (are) chosen from one or more metal oxide (s) present in a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to total weight of the composition, advantageously between 3% and 22% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
    [0029] ADDITIVES The compositions according to the invention may further comprise any cosmetic active agent such as the active agents chosen from an additional silicone or volatile oil, fibers, fillers, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, bactericidal active agents and neutralizers. , emollients, moisturizers, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, alkalizing or acidifying agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, coalescing agents, vitamins, and mixtures thereof. Among the thickeners, there may be mentioned, for example, hydrocarbon-based block copolymers which are suitable for mascara composition formulations. The hydrocarbon-based block copolymers which are suitable for the invention, also called block copolymers, are preferably soluble or dispersible in the oily phase. The hydrocarbon block copolymer may in particular be a diblock copolymer.
    [0030] Such hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in application US-A-2002/005562 and in US-A-5 221 534. The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20. ° C, preferably less than or equal to 0 ° C, preferably less than or equal to -20 ° C, more preferably less than or equal to -40 ° C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150 ° C. and 20 ° C., in particular between -100 ° C. and 0 ° C.
    [0031] The hydrocarbon block copolymer present in the composition according to the invention may be an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an ethylenically unsaturated elastomeric monomer. By "amorphous polymer" is meant a polymer that does not have a crystalline form. As an example of an olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, especially having one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene or pentadiene. .
    [0032] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin. Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof.
    [0033] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers. In particular, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks.
    [0034] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene / butadiene copolymers and styrene-ethylene copolymers. / butylene. Diblock polymers are in particular sold under the name Kratong G1701E by Kraton Polymers. Advantageously, a diblock copolymer such as those described above, in particular a diblock copolymer of styrene-ethylene / propylene, is used as the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer. The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0035] It is routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not not affected.
    [0036] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is in the form of a product for the eyelashes, in particular a mascara. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a product for the eyebrows.
    [0037] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes, preferably in the form of a mascara. According to another preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is in the form of a product for the eye contour, the eyelids, in particular a liner such as an eyeliner. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a care and / or make-up composition for keratinous substances, in particular for the contour of the eyes and eyelids, preferably in the form of a liner. Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified.
    [0038] Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified. In the description and examples, unless otherwise indicated the percentages are percentages by weight. The percentages are therefore expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The ingredients are mixed in the order and under the conditions readily determined by those skilled in the art.
    [0039] I. EXAMPLES OF PREPARATION OF DISPERSIONS Example 1 In a first stage, 1300 g of isododecane, 337 g of isobornyl acrylate, 28 g of methyl acrylate and 3.64 g of tert-butylperoxy were introduced into a reactor. 2-ethylhexanoate (Trigonox 21S from Akzo). The mass ratio Isobornyl Acrylate / Methyl Acrylate is 92/8. The mixture was heated to 90 ° C under argon with stirring. After 2 hours of reaction, 1430 g of isododecane were added to the reactor bottom, and the mixture was heated to 90 ° C. In a second step, a mixture of 1376 g of methyl acrylate, 1376 g of isododecane and 13.75 g of Trigonox 21S was introduced over 2 hours 30 minutes and allowed to react for 7 hours. 3.3 liters of isododecane were then added and then a portion of the isododecane was evaporated to obtain a solids content of 50% by weight.
    [0040] A dispersion of methyl acrylate particles stabilized with a random copolymer stabilizer containing 92% isobornyl acrylate and 8% methyl acrylate was obtained in isododecane. The oily dispersion contains in total (stabilizer + particles) 80% of methyl acrylate and 20% of isobornyl acrylate.
    [0041] The polymer particles of the dispersion have a number average size of about 160 nm. The dispersion is stable after storage for 7 days at room temperature (25 ° C).
    [0042] EXAMPLE 2 A polymer dispersion was prepared in isododecane, according to the method of preparation of Example 1, using: Step 1: 275.5 g of isobornyl acrylate, 11.6 g of acrylate methyl, 11.6 g of ethyl acrylate, 2.99 g of Trigonox 21, 750 g of isododecane; then addition after reaction of 750 g of isododecane.
    [0043] Step 2: 539.5 g of methyl acrylate, 539.5 g of ethyl acrylate, 10.8 g of Trigonox 21S, 1079 g of isododecane. After reaction, addition of 2 liters of isododecane and evaporation to obtain a solids content of 35% by weight. An isododecane dispersion of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate (50/50) copolymer particles stabilized with a random copolymer stabilizer isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate (92/4 / 4). The oily dispersion contains in total (stabilizer + particles) 40% of methyl acrylate, 40% of ethyl acrylate and 20% of isobornyl acrylate. The dispersion is stable after storage for 7 days at room temperature (25 ° C). EXAMPLE 3 A polymer dispersion in isododecane was prepared according to the method of preparation of Example 1, using: Step 1: 315.2 g of isobornyl acrylate, 12.5 g of acrylate methyl, 12.5 g of ethyl acrylate, 3.4 g of Trigonox 21, 540 g of isododecane, 360 g of ethyl acetate; then addition after reaction of 540 g of isododecane and 360 g of ethyl acetate. Step 2: 303 g of methyl acrylate, 776 g of ethyl acrylate, 157 g of acrylic acid, 11 g of Trigonox 21S, 741.6 g of isododecane and 494.4 g of ethyl acetate. ethyl.
    [0044] After reaction, addition of 3 liters of a mixture of isododecane / ethyl acetate (60/40 w / w) and total evaporation of the ethyl acetate and partial of the isododecane to obtain a solids content of 44% by weight. weight. An isododecane dispersion of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid (24.5 / 62.8 / 12.7) copolymer particles stabilized with a stabilizing random copolymer of isobornyl acrylate / acrylate acrylate was obtained. methyl / ethyl acrylate (92/4/4). The oily dispersion contains in total (stabilizer + particles) 10% of acrylic acid, 20% of methyl acrylate, 50% of ethyl acrylate and 20% of isobornyl acrylate.
    [0045] The dispersion is stable after storage for 7 days at room temperature (25 ° C).
    [0046] EXAMPLE 4 A polymer dispersion in isododecane was prepared according to the method of preparation of Example 1 using: Step 1: 315.2 g isobornyl acrylate, 12.5 g acrylate methyl, 12.5 g of ethyl acrylate, 3.4 g of Trigonox 21, 540 g of isododecane, 360 g of ethyl acetate; then addition after reaction of 540 g of isododecane and 360 g of ethyl acetate. Step 2: 145 g of methyl acrylate, 934 g of ethyl acrylate, 157 g of acrylic acid, 12.36 g of Trigonox 21S, 741.6 g of isododecane and 494.4 g of acetate ethyl. After reaction, addition of 3 liters of a mixture of isododecane / ethyl acetate (60/40 w / w) and total evaporation of the ethyl acetate and partial of the isododecane to obtain a solids content of 44% by weight. weight. An isododecane dispersion of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid (11.7 / 75.6 / 12.7) copolymer particles stabilized by a stabilizing random copolymer of isobornyl acrylate / acrylate acrylate was obtained. methyl / ethyl acrylate (92/4/4). The oily dispersion contains in total (stabilizer + particles) 10% of acrylic acid, 10% of methyl acrylate, 60% of ethyl acrylate and 20% of sobornyl acrylate. The dispersion is stable after storage for 7 days at room temperature (25 ° C). EXAMPLE 5 A polymer dispersion in isododecane was prepared, according to the method of preparation of Example 1, using: Step 1: 48 g of isobornyl acrylate, 2 g of methyl acrylate, 2 g ethyl acrylate, 0.52 g of Trigonox 21, 57.6 g of isododecane, 38.4 g of ethyl acetate; then addition after reaction of 540 g of isododecane and 360 g of ethyl acetate. Step 2: 98 g of methyl acrylate, 73 g of ethyl acrylate, 25 g of maleic anhydride, 1.96 g of Trigonox 21S, 50.4 g of isododecane and 33.60 g of acetate ethyl.
    [0047] After reaction, addition of 1 liter of a mixture of isododecane / ethyl acetate (60/40 w / w) and total evaporation of the ethyl acetate and partial isododecane to obtain a dry extract of 46.2 % in weight.
    [0048] An isododecane dispersion of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymer particles (50 / 37.2 / 12.8) stabilized with a stabilizing random copolymer of isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate (92/4/4).
    [0049] The oily dispersion contains in total (stabilizer + particles) 10% of maleic anhydride, 30% of methyl acrylate, 40% of ethyl acrylate and 20% of isobornyl acrylate. The dispersion is stable after storage for 7 days at room temperature (25 ° C).
    [0050] Example 6 A polymer dispersion in isododecane was prepared according to the method of preparation of Example 1, using: Step 1: 48.5 g of isobornyl methacrylate, 4 g of methyl acrylate, 52 g of Trigonox 21, 115 g of isododecane; then addition after reaction of 80 g of isododecane. Step 2: 190 g of methyl acrylate, 1.9 g of Trigonox 21S, 190 g of isododecane. After reaction, addition of 1 liter of isododecane and partial evaporation of the isododecane to obtain a solids content of 48% by weight. An isododecane dispersion of methyl acrylate polymer particles stabilized with a statistical copolymer stabilizer of isobornyl methacrylate / methyl acrylate (92/8) was obtained. The oily dispersion contains in total (stabilizer + particles) 80% of methyl acrylate and 20% of isobornyl methacrylate. The dispersion is stable after storage for 7 days at room temperature (25 ° C). II. EXAMPLES OF COMPOSITIONS: MASCARAS or LINERS The formulation of composition 1 (corresponding to a mascara) according to the invention is prepared as described below: The components are weighed in a skillet and placed under stirring with 90-95 ° rayneri vs.
    [0051] Once the gel is made and homogeneous the mixture goes down to room temperature with stirring with rayneri (25 ° C). The formulations (corresponding to a liner) conforming (compositions 2 to 4) or non-compliant (compositions 5 and 6) to the invention are prepared as described below. The components are weighed in a skillet and stirred with rayneri at room temperature (25 ° C) until the mixture is homogeneous.
    [0052] Compounds Composition Composition Composition Composition Composition Eyeliner 2 eyeliner 3 eyeliner 3 mascara 1 composition Eyeliner 4 eyeliner 4 6 according to according to according to the invention the invention invention invention COPOLYMER 44,64% 38,70% 50.00% 50.00% 50.00% 50.00% (METHYL ACRYLATE) -00- (ISOBORNYL ACRYLATE) (80.7 / 19.3) SOLUTION IN ISODODECANE according to Preparation Example 1 previously described Hydrogenated copolymer Styrene / Isoprene (KRATON G1701 EU® sold 7.44% by KRATON POLYMERS) Hydrogenated copolymer 14.88% - - 30 , 00% - - Styrene / methyl styrene / indene (REGALITE R1100 CG HYDROCARBON RESINO marketed by EASTMAN CHEMICAL) Copolymer acid - 38.70% 50.00% - - - acrylic / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate (MEXOMER PAS® sold by CHIMEX) Copolymer - - - - 20.00% - acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate (DOW CORNING FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLA 1E0 sold by the company Dow Corning) POLYBU I ENE (INDOPOL - - - - - 50.00% H 1500® marketed by the company INEOS) Iron oxides / CI 77499 7.00% 10 , 00% - - - - (SUNPURO BLACK IRON OXIDE C33-7001® sold by SUN) Phenoxyethanol (SEPICIDE 0.50% 0.45% - - - - LDO marketed by the company SEPPIC) Pentylene glycol (616751 - 2 , 70% - - - - HYDROLLIE-5® marketed by the company SYMRISE) Isododecane marketed Qsp100 Qsp100 - Qsp100 Qsp100 - by the company INEOS Measurement of the gloss and the residual stickiness Protocol for measuring the brightness of a composition The measurement of the brightness of the compositions 1 to 6 was carried out using the Byk spectro-guide sphere gloss glossmeter.
    [0053] Principle of the measurement using this Brillancemeter The apparatus illuminates the sample to be analyzed according to a certain incidence and measures the intensity of the specular reflection. The intensity of the reflected light depends on the material and the angle of illumination. For non-ferrous materials (paint, plastic), the reflected light intensity increases with the illumination angle. The remainder of the incident light penetrates into the material and according to the hue of the color, it is either partially absorbed or diffused. The measurement results of the reflectometer are not based on the amount of incident light but on a black and polished glass standard of defined refractive index.
    [0054] The measurement is normalized to an internal standard and reduced to 100: For this standard, the measured value is set to 100 units of gloss (calibration). The closer the measured value is to 100, the more brilliant the sample. The unit of measurement is the Gloss Unit (UB).
    [0055] The angle of illumination used greatly influences the value of the reflectometer. To be able to differentiate between very bright and dull surfaces, standardization has defined 3 geometries, or 3 measurement domains. Test protocol a- On a LENETA brand contrast card and FORM 1A PENOPAC reference card, spread a 300 μm thick layer of the composition whose medium gloss is to be evaluated, using a automatic spreader. The layer covers the white background and the black background of the map. b- Allow to dry for 24 hours at 37 ° C. c- Measure the gloss at 60 ° on the white matt absorbent base (3 measurements) using a BYK GARDNER Brillancemeter and spectro-guide reference sphere gloss.
    [0056] It is then necessary to compare the measured values in UB obtained for the different compositions tested. The lower the measured value, the more the deposit is dull. Measurement protocol for residual tights The tights are evaluated by touch. A film with a thickness of 300um wet is made on a glass plate using an automatic spreader. The film is allowed to dry in an oven at 37 ° C for 24 hours. After these 24 hours, the sticky is fingered on the film with a fingerstall.
    [0057] Results The results are summarized in the table below. Measurements Composition Composition Composition Composition Composition Composition 1 2 3 4 5 6 according to according to according to according to out of the invention the invention invention invention brightness measured at 60 ° to 81 75 86.7 +/- 1.5 90.31 + / - 1.8 54.2 +/- 3.2 Not measured contrast map Gloss measured at 60 ° on Not measured Not measured 130 +/- 2.6 118.8 +/- 4.6 77.9 + / - 1,2 13,5 +/- 2,3 glass plate Sticky residue to the touch none none None weak none Very strong The deposit of the compositions according to the invention 1 to 4 is brilliant and has no or little residual tack at to touch. In addition, compositions 1 to 4 in accordance with the invention have good non-transfer and hold properties. As regards the deposition of the compositions which are not in accordance with the invention 5 and 6, the absence of hydrophobic film-forming polymer which is suitable for the invention causes a significant loss of gloss and, in addition, for one of the two compositions (composition 6). ), the residual tackiness to the touch is very strong.
    权利要求:
    Claims (18)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. Composition, in particular cosmetic care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular eyelashes, comprising at least: a non-aqueous medium containing at least one hydrocarbon oil, particles of at least one polymer stabilized on the surface with a stabilizing agent the polymer of the particles being a polymer of (C1-C4) alkyl (meth) acrylate; the stabilizing agent being a polymer of isobornyl (meth) acrylate selected from isobornyl (meth) acrylate homopolymer and random copolymers of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and alkyl (meth) acrylate C1-C4 present in a weight ratio of isobornyl (meth) acrylate / C1-C4 alkyl (meth) acrylate greater than 4; and a hydrophobic film-forming polymer chosen from block ethylenic copolymers, hydrocarbon resins and their mixtures.
    [0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said particles are dispersed in said non-aqueous medium containing at least one hydrocarbon oil.
    [0003]
    3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (the) oil (s) hydrocarbon (s) is (are) present (s) in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 70% in weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and still more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the hydrocarbon oil (s) being preferably apolar (s), more preferably volatile (s), still more preferably having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, or even better isododecane.
    [0004]
    A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the particles of the polymer (s) are present in an amount of 5% to 50% by weight, preferably 8% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0005]
    5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer (s) of the particles is (are) polymer (s) of methyl acrylate and / or acrylate. 'ethyl.
    [0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (the) polymer (s) of the particles comprises (comprise) an ethylenically unsaturated acidic monomer or their anhydride, preferably chosen from (meth) acrylic acid , maleic acid and maleic anhydride.
    [0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (the) polymer (s) of the particles comprises (include) from 80% to 100% by weight of C1-C6 alkyl (meth) acrylate. C4 and from 0% to 20% by weight of ethylenically unsaturated acid monomer, relative to the total weight of the polymer, the polymer (s) of the particles being chosen from: the homopolymers of methyl acrylate the homopolymers of ethyl acrylate copolymers of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate copolymers of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymers of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers of methyl acrylate / acid acrylic ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymers methyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers.
    [0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (the) stabilizing agent (s) is (are) a random copolymer of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and (meth) acrylate C1-C4 alkyl present in a weight ratio of isobornyl (meth) acrylate / C1-C4 alkyl (meth) acrylate greater than or equal to 5.
    [0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (the) stabilizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from: homopolymers of isobornyl acrylate random copolymers of isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate random copolymers of isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate random copolymers of isobornyl methacrylate / methyl acrylate.
    [0010]
    10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the stabilizer (s) + polymer (s) of the particles, in particular present in the dispersion, comprises from 10% to 50% by weight of (meth) polymerized isobornyl acrylate and from 50% to 90% by weight of polymerized C 1 -C 4 alkyl (meth) acrylate, based on the total weight of the stabilizer + polymer set of the particles.
    [0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% by weight of water, better less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water. relative to the total weight of the composition, and especially free of water.
    [0012]
    12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ethylenic block copolymer is an acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate copolymer.
    [0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) ethylene copolymer (s) sequenced (s) is (are) present in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, and still more preferably from 8% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0014]
    14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon resin is chosen from indene hydrocarbon resins, aliphatic pentadiene resins, mixed pentane and indene resins, diene resins of cyclopentanediene dimers. , the diene resins of the isoprene dimers and their mixtures, preferably from indene hydrocarbon resins, aliphatic pentadiene resins, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from the indene hydrocarbon resins.
    [0015]
    15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (es) hydrocarbon resin (s) is (are) present in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, of preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0016]
    16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one dyestuff, preferably the coloring matter (s) is (are) chosen from pulverulent materials, in particular pigments, more particularly from metal oxides such as iron oxides.
    [0017]
    17. A cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular eyelashes, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 16.
    [0018]
    18. Use of a dispersion of particles of at least one surface stabilized polymer with a stabilizing agent in a non-aqueous medium containing at least one hydrocarbon oil, the polymer of the particles being an alkyl (meth) acrylate polymer. C1-C4; the stabilizing agent being a polymer of isobornyl (meth) acrylate selected from isobornyl (meth) acrylate homopolymer and random copolymers of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and alkyl (meth) acrylate C1-C4 present in a weight ratio of isobornyl (meth) acrylate / (C1-C4) alkyl (meth) acrylate greater than 4 to prepare a composition of mascara or eye liner.
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    法律状态:
    2015-11-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2016-06-24| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160624 |
    2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2021-11-09| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1462731A|FR3030261B1|2014-12-18|2014-12-18|COMPOSITION COMPRISING STABILIZED POLYMER PARTICLES AND A HYDROPHOBIC FILMOGENIC POLYMER|FR1462731A| FR3030261B1|2014-12-18|2014-12-18|COMPOSITION COMPRISING STABILIZED POLYMER PARTICLES AND A HYDROPHOBIC FILMOGENIC POLYMER|
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